Learning Center:
Before Your First Cut
Ready to get your portable sawmill started?
It is finally here, the mill you have been excitedly anticipating! Besides piling up all those beautiful logs that are waiting to be milled, there are important things check off the to-do list before starting with your first cut.
You can find a detailed pre-start checklist in Your Sawmill Manual which will go over steps like testing the blade tracking and tensioning.
But if you’ve just finished the assembly process of your portable sawmill, here are a few quick things you should do before you start milling.
Step 1
Safety first
Ensure you are wearing the proper safety equipment and following all safety procedures before operating, setting up or doing maintenance on your sawmill.
That means wearing safety glasses which comply with the current national standards and wearing safety gloves.
Always maintain proper footing and balance and do not wear loose, dangling clothing, jewellery or other objects.
When making blade guide adjustments, removing or installing blades or conducting any other maintenance or adjustments, make sure the engine is off. Remove the ignition key and the spark plug cap as a safety precaution.
Step 2
Fill the mill with oil and gas
When first assembled the engine does not contain any gasoline or engine oil. The engine is also equipped with an oil alert system, meaning that if the crankcase oil level is low or empty, the power is cut to the spark plug and it will not start.
Choose a high-quality ethanol free fuel for your mill's engine. Choosing a low-grade gas that includes ethanol can clog your carburetor and cause havoc on your engine down the line. You should make sure your gas tank is full each time you mill to avoid your mill stopping halfway through a cut.
Don't forget to fill your engine with oil. The type of oil you use will differ depending on the temperature in which you are milling. 10W-30 is the most common, but you can check the chart in your manual if you are unsure what oil to use.
Step 3
Ready your blade
Out of the box your portable sawmill comes with one bandsaw blade. Follow the steps in the manual to properly install and ensure it is fully tensioned (we will test this). You should double check that the blade is not inside out, and that when it is properly installed, the teeth should be pointing in the same direction as the cut, and oriented so they are cutting into the wood and not dragging backwards across it.
Some blades are manufactured with an oil coating to combat rust. This can cause your blade to pop off the belts. Just run the blade over with a clean rag to remove any oil and dirt before use.
For more information about the anatomy of your sawmill blade, as well as proper maintenance of it, check out our Knowing Your Blades and Sawmill Blades 101 articles. Upon initial setup you will have a brand new blade, but going forward it is useful to know what parts of the blades wear out and why it may be helpful to have a Woodland Mills Blade Sharpener or Tooth Setter.
Another initial step to maintaining your blades is to ensure your log stops are properly set up. The blade guard will stop the blade from accidentally hitting a log stop, damaging both the stop and your blade. The HM126 and HM130MAX come standard with a blade guard.
Step 4
Set your blade tracking
Once your blade is on the mill, you can start fine-tuning the tracking on your blade. The goal is to have the blade centered on the belts and hold there as the wheels spin without needing any guides touching the blade.
You can slowly turn the wheels by hand and adjust accordingly. Eyeballing it to get a similar amount of blade on either side of the band wheel is enough, you don't need to measure. The image above shows the “ideal position” of the blade centred on the belts and band wheels.
If the tracking is “off” then your cuts may be wavy and the blade will not stay on the belts. This will lead to excessive wear on the belt, the blade guide bearing and the blade itself.
You can view our complete Blade Tracking Guide Here.
Step 5
Fill your lubrication tank (but not right away)
You should not fill your lubrication when first starting your mill. Run your mill dry for at least 30 minutes to build texture on the belts. This will cut down on the chance of hydroplaning. Once the belts are broken in, start with a minimal amount of lubrication and increase as needed to remove sap.
When filling the lubrication tank in warmer weather, you can fill it with water mixed with 1 teaspoon of dish soap. The soap will help keep sawdust from building up on the blade. In colder weather we suggest using windshield wiper fluid.
Never use diesel or other chemicals in your lubrication tank as this can cause your belts to wear faster, as well as staining your lumber - and no one wants that.
Step 6
Set up your hour meter
During your assembly you should have installed the Hour Meter onto the right side of the dashboard of the sawmill head assembly.
One pivotal step some sawyers forget is to cut the wire loop on the Hour Meter once it is installed. This will activate the meter to start measuring the vibration of your machine, recording the hours of use on the engine.
Step 7
Test your sawmill
Start by running your sawmill head assembly all the way along the track, ensuring it moves freely. If it binds or is difficult to push, the track may not be square, straight or level or there may be obstructions. Check your track, make any necessary adjustments and when you are ready, roll the head assembly along the track again until it rolls freely.
Test your blade tracking and ensure the blade is fully tensioned, so your cuts on your sawmill are accurate and optimize the life of your blades and belts. Remember that tracking testing can only be done under full blade tension, which can be achieved when the tension handle is snugged to the thrust bearing and the rotated another 2 ½ to 3 full turns. You will know your blade is successfully tracked if it cuts straight and holds the blade’s location centred along the band wheels.
To turn on the sawmill, turn the choke and gas on and pull the engine cord or turn-key (electric-start engine models only). Once the engine starts, turn the choke off slowly and let the engine warm up for 1 minute.
Remember to always mill at full throttle.
From now on...
After you are finished milling for the day it is important to loosen the tension off the blade so that it does not create flat spots on the rubber belts. Flat spots can cause extreme vibrations while using the mill.
You can view our complete Blade Tension Guide Here.